> COSMETIC 1 INCI Name: XANTHAN GUM SAFAXAN RANGE www.safic-alcan.com OUTLINE * BACKGROUND * * MARKET STUDY * * PRODUCTION * * STRUCTURE * * MAIN PROPERTIES * * PH AND TEMPERATURE STABILITY * * SOLUBILISATION AND HYDRATION * * USAGE INSTRUCTIONS • * APPENDICES 2 MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: BACKGROUND * Definition * ●Polysaccharide prepared by bio-fermentation of sugars by bacterium Xanthomonas campestris ● ●INCI name: Xanthan Gum ● ●3 grades: -Safaxan 80 : high particle size (177 µm), low hydration rate, fast dispersion -Safaxan 200 : low particle size (80 µm), fast hydration rate, low dispersion • 3 MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: MARKET STUDY 4 Number of products launched with “xanthan” in Europe* in the past 12 months : 3834 (source Mintel) •France, Germany, UK, Italy, Spain, Belgium, Poland, Czech Republic, Portugal, Netherlands, Turkey MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: MARKET STUDY 5 MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: PRODUCTION 6 Fermentation by Xanthomonas Campestris 30°C / 72h aerob Precipitation Drying Selection > > Cultivation Grinding Squeezing Dehydration Sieving Packing MARCH 2016 │ Development Group 7 Pyruvic acid O O MAN OH HO O O OH COO-M+ OH O MAN OH O OH2C C O M+-OOC CH3 Mannose CH2OH O O GLU OH O Acetylated mannose HO GLU O O OH COO-M+ OH O MAN OH OH O CH2OH MAN Glucuronic acid Mannose Glucuronic acid Acetylated mannose CH2OH CH2OH O GLU OH CH2OH O O O GLU OH O OH OH OH O OH AcOH2C HO AcOH2C OH Glucose Xanthan “helix type” of structure seen from the top and from the side SAFAXAN RANGE: STRUCTURE ●Xanthan is made of β-1,4-glycosidic glucose units with side chains containing an acetylated mannose, a glucuronic acid and a terminal mannose ●Half of the terminal mannose carry a pyruvic acid residue ●Molecular weight is around 4*106 ●Synergy with other polysaccharides (see Safimix GX) - ● • MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: MAIN PROPERTIES ●Thickening and suspending agent with as yield values ● ● ● ● - ● ● ● ● ● ●High stability in extreme conditions (pH & temperature) but sensitive to cationic surfactants ●High degree of pseudoplasticity ●Synergy with other polysaccharides (see Safimix GX) - ● • 8 Safaxan 200 Competitive xanthan (200 mesh) MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: MAIN PROPERTIES ●At rest xanthan molecules adopt an equilibrium : hydrogen bounding creates a network able to suspend particles, droplets, air bubbles ● ●In presence of stress (movement), molecules are reoriented and the gel is broken ● ●When the flow occurs , the molecules turn toward the current and the viscosity decreases ● ●When the stress is removed, the molecules go back to equilibrium ● 9 stress increases stress increases Xanthan molecules are at rest and form a gel Xanthan molecules are reoriented stress decreases stress decreases MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: PH AND TEMPERATURE STABILITY * Xanthan is stable over a broad range of pH ● - - ● ● ● ● * Xanthan is also stable over a broad range of temperature (up to 90oC, data not shown here) and in presence of ions • • 10 Safaxan 80 Clear (1%) Safaxan 80 (1%) MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: SOLUBILISATION AND HYDRATION 11 Hydration rate Safaxan 200 Safaxan 80 MARCH 2016 │ Development Group SAFAXAN RANGE: USAGE INSTRUCTIONS * Usage instructions ●Pre-disperse Safaxan in glycerin ●Once the mixture is homogeneous, add it to the water phase ●Xanthan can be added at room temperature ●It is recommended to use Xanthan in presence of electrolytes (salt stabilizes the helix structure) ● * Application formulae ●Face, neck, body, eye care formulae ●Hair care formulae ●Sun care, after sun and self-tanning formulae ● * Recommended usage ●0.2 – 1% • 12 Formulated in Go to “Detailed application formulae” [USEMAP] Gloss & Glow Golden Blond Hair Leave-on Elixir Wait & Glow Antioxidant Radiance Mask MARCH 2016 │ Development Group APPENDICES Carte à utiliser uniquement en affichage Plein Ecran GLOSS & GLOW: GOLDEN BLOND HAIR LEAVE-ON ELIXIR 14 •Repairing and moisturizing actives • •Blond hair elixir • •Soft and dry touch • •Giving strength and vitality to your hair MARCH 2016 │ Development Group [USEMAP] • * Silicone gel * * Soft and dry touch • * 4 repairing and moisturizing actives * * Pearlescent pigments * * 15 Go back to “Usage instructions” GLOSS & GLOW: GOLDEN BLOND HAIR LEAVE-ON ELIXIR MARCH 2016 │ Development Group WAIT & GLOW: ANTIOXIDANT RADIANCE MASK * Creamy gel texture * * Protective, moisturizing, softening and illuminating actives * * Thanks to CaCl2 solution, emulsion instantaneously becomes a mask that can be easily removed like a « second » skin 16 MARCH 2016 │ Development Group WAIT & GLOW: ANTIOXIDANT RADIANCE MASK * Oil / Water emulsion * * Low oil phase * * Association of 3 actives: ●Brightning and glowing active ●Soothing active ●Antioxidant active * 17 Go back to “Usage instructions” [USEMAP] MARCH 2016 │ Development Group